It’s always a promising sign when a cafe located roughly in the middle of nowhere is still functional. Even better when it’s thriving. This, surely, is when you know you’re onto something good.
Cycling to Lolo & Wren, I was sure I must have copied the wrong address. I found myself in inner-suburban no man’s land — an obscure part of Brunswick West somewhere between Melville Road and the CityLink tollway. Yep, romantic.
But there it was, nestled among houses and apartment buildings, with little to attract punters apart from an A-frame sign and a few glowing recommendations.
Run by husband and wife team Franco and Karen Caruso, it’s Lolo & Wren’s food that’s put it on the highly competitive Melbourne cafe map — no wonder considering Franco is a former Scottish Young Chef of the Year (2006). The cafe itself is large and bright, with an open kitchen and a central wooden bench perfect for perching to read the newspaper.
On a recommendation I tried the pancakes with pear, almonds, walnuts and mascarpone, and my friend had an egg and bacon brekkie that, for once, really was restaurant quality. Both were delish and the servings were huge; I have it on good authority that some of the dishes really ought to be shared. The prices here are on the upper end of standard for the inner suburbs — generally around $19 for breakfast — but here you really get your money’s worth.
This one is definitely worth the cycle.
Address: 484 Albion Street Brunswick West, Vic, 3055
Tel: 9383 3712
Opening Hours: 7am–4pm Monday–Friday, 8am–4pm Saturday and Sunday